Bagh which is a unique craft of thappa chappai or block printing with natural colors has evolved from a rudimentary tribal art to an invaluable part of the heritage and cultural identity of Madhya Pradesh indeed. The print motifs are typically geometric, paisley, or floral compositions design, dyed with vegetable colors of red and black over a white background.
Origin
Bagh print has its roots in Sindh, which is now a part of Pakistan. The art of printing then moved eastwards to Marwar (Rajasthan) and later to Manavar (Madhya Pradesh). The present form of this printing actually started in 1962, when the craftsmen migrated from Manavar to the neighboring town of Bagh situated in the Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh. Over time, the style of Bagh Printing has evolved and attained uniqueness.
History
The origins of the Bagh print are uncertain, but it is believed that the practice is over 1,000 years old. With the techniques having been handed down through family practice from generation to generation. Muslim Khatri community traveled to this area around 400 years ago from Larkana in Sindh province, Pakistan.
Besides settling in Pali and the Thar Desert in Rajasthan, they settled at Manawar in Madhya Pradesh, and continued their traditional occupation of printing and selling fabric. The initial reasons for the migration are unclear, but the area’s proximity to the Bagh river, which provided the water necessary for washing of fabric and processing of vegetable dyes, could be the primary reason for settling in Bagh. In addition, the chemical composition of the water from the Bagh river enhances the texture of the vegetable, natural, and black dyes, giving them a luminous quality that distinguishes Bagh prints from other prints in Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan regions.
Process
Bagh Print is a very technical and hard-working process in which perfection can be got only after long training and experience. The technique of Bagh Print cloth Printing is classified into many parts.
Khara Process
Craftsmen wash the cloth in river water and dried on the river banks. When the cloth dries they boil it in bundles and soaked into a paste of raw salt, castor oil, and goat dung. Then they spread out the cloth on the mud floor for twenty-four hours. The next day, they soak again in the same paste. They repeat this process two to three times. This is a Khara process
Peela Process
After the Khara process, they wash the cloth in river water after which they temporarily dye in harda paste and left to dry in the sun. This rigorous and methodical process makes the cloth ready for the process of printing.
Printing Process
For printing, they use two kinds of pastes. One is the red paste made of ALUM while the other is a black paste made of RUST OF IRON. Both of which have tamarind seed powder/ dhavda gum. This paste is filtered and poured into a wooden tray. The tray itself is organized according to specific requirements of printing. Skillful craftsmen then print with blocks to create intricate designs.
Vichliya Process
They spread a printed cloth on the flowing water of the River and rinsed. Then without taking the cloth out of the water, they jerk and move side by side for an hour to remove the extra color present in the cloth. They conduct the Vichliya process by looking at the flow of the river. After Vichliya, they dry the cloth in sunlight.
Bhatti Process
One requires massive copper vessels to boil the ingredients which are Alizarin and dhavdi flowers. They boil the printed cloth for three to four hours. The color of the water becomes clear as it boils in the vessel. The printed red which has alum takes its color from Alizarin and becomes maroon. Similarly, printed black with the rust of iron becomes dark black. Dhavdi flower works like bleach on the unprinted portions which previously dyed in harda, makes it white after this process of boiling.
Tapai Process
After the proper clarification of the colors, they take the cloth to the river bed to spread in order to sprinkle water on it for three days. Later, they dry them on pebbles and the cloth is ready for market in all its glorious colors and designs.
Revival and global importance
In the 1960s, many craftsmen abandoned the traditional process of Bagh prints in favor of using synthetic fabrics. However, a number of artisans, including Ismail Sulemanji Khatri, continued to practice and innovate within the traditional framework of the craft and brought Bagh prints to international prominence.
A pioneer in textile printing, Ismailji, and his five sons have earned national awards for their exclusive designs. He received a national award in 1984 for a masterpiece with 1230 geometric patterns that he created for the Festival of India in France.
In 2011, Madhya Pradesh exhibited Bagh prints, through its tableau during the Republic Day parade. Besides, it will also have a huge `Shal Bhanjika` depicting the celestial beauty of the 11th century draped in bagh printed clothing.
References
Bagh print – Wikipedia
Hand Block Printing of Bagh, Madhya Pradesh | The Craft and Artisans
Bagh Prints: A Lasting Imprint – Outlook Traveller (outlookindia.com)
Process » Bagh Print
Bagh – Material (unnatisilks.com)
