Himroo, a fascinating fabric from Aurangabad, Maharashtra, is the oldest fabric that is still prevalent in India. The significant feature of Himroo is that it is made from the fabric of silk and cotton and the finished product looks like satin. Silk yarn and gold thread on a silk ground are also popular. These luxurious fabrics mostly denote nobility and royalty in olden times.
Himroo uses Persian designs and is very characteristic and distinctive in appearance. Some historians believe that Himroo was the innovation of local craftsmen with very little Persian influence.
Origin
As per historians, Himroo has a Persian origin. The word himroo originated from the Persian word Hum-ruh which means ‘similar’. It was developed as a cheaper alternative to kimkhwab. It was the more lavish brocade of silk and gold thread weaved for royalty in the 14th century.
History
During an ebullient time in Indian history, when emperor Mohammad Tughlaq (who ruled in the 14th century) and his loyal herd of elephants tried to relocate their headquarters to Daulatabad in Maharashtra, some precious trade secrets of Persian shawl weaving techniques clandestinely found their way into the narrow alleys of Aurangabad. At a later period in history, and in the Moghal period, weavers who enjoyed imperial patronage began challenging the supremacy of the Persian weavers. The Himroo shawls produced in India evoked intense curiosity in neighboring foreign lands. This not only guaranteed a lucrative export market but also uplifted the image of the Mogul dynasty. As Himroo is very unique and different, these fabrics were much liked by members of the royal family and others from the elite families. In ancient times, artisans made fabrics from gold and silver.
During the reign of Malik Ambar, many people were attracted to the city and came and settled here from far and wide. Aurangabad during Aurangzeb’s Governorship and the times of Mughal became the capital and the weavers had a gala time making money and becoming prosperous. The handicraft industry in Aurangabad attracted hundreds of craftsmen and artisans.
Designs and Patterns:
Himroo is very distinct and peculiar with the use of bold patterns and colors. Originally made with a mix of cotton and silk, gives a look and feel of satin cloth, thus making Himroo a perfect choice for shawls and stoles.
The popular motifs consist of ‘SiaJangla’ that has hanging creepers with flowers and foliage mixed up with miniature cones, Ajanta pattern inspired from Ajanta Caves, and Ambi pattern where paisley motif dominates fabric.
The other design patterns used are shapes of hexagons, circles, octagons, ovals, and diamonds. Intricate creeper designs are popular. Fruit patterns mainly are of pineapples, almonds, and more. Commonly used interlocking patterns are designs of flowers, animals, and leaves. One can see the richness in the craftsmanship and the material used.
Process
Upon visiting the training center, which appears to be one of the last repositories of this dying craft you can see the nimble fingers of weavers gently toss the katla (thread shuttle) left to right, their legs moving the paddle of the traditional wooden loom downward to weave the himroo motifs on the silk base. The captivating motifs appear on the surface in brilliant blue, black, orange, yellow, and ochre.
This special cotton brocade is woven on a throw-shuttle loom and has an art-silk or silk mix. It has a complicated technique of weaving. The design has to be decided at the outset since two kinds of threads are mixed.
These fabrics have a peculiar appearance with bold colors and patterns. Their unique designs and patterns are the characteristics of Himroo fabrics. The Himroo weavers mainly weave shawls, veils, and bridal saris as well as blouses, coats, cloaks, furnishings, and more. These fabrics find a special place in wedding ceremonies even today. In the olden days, the weavers used to weave the fabrics by hand, but today they use machines.
Revival and Exhibition
Much credit for keeping the craft alive in the past goes to the Qureshi family from Aurangabad who undertook a rejuvenation drive a century ago during the time of the Nizam of Hyderabad. Ajaz Ahmed Qureshi, not only represents the 13th generation of the famous Qureshi family but also currently runs the Aurangabad Himroo Industry and the Paithani Weaving and Training Centre at Jaffer Gate, Mondha Road, in Aurangabad. Both are Government of India undertakings. The government sponsors the looms for the work and runs training programs for weavers. Ajaz Qureshi, who learned the job from his father indeed, is a master craftsman himself.
With basic training, modernized tools and equipment as well as meticulous planning, Aurangabad’s weavers too can diversify and reclaim the market. However, a true lover of the art continues to insist on the woven magic created by human hands.
