Paithani is the well-famous and most expensive Maharashtrian textile mainly used in making sarees. The effort-intensive process of weaving a Paithani results in a fabric of unparalleled beauty that looks exactly the same on both sides hence the reason for the queen of Maharashtrian sarees. The garment is extensively worn by the royal women of the Maratha empire.
These sarees form an integral part of Maharashtra’s cultural heritage. For a Maharashtrian bride, the sari is a must in the bridal trousseau. Vithu Mauli of Pandharpur, and Ambabai of Kolhapur were decorated with special Paithani clothes.
Etymology
It derived its name after the historical city of Paithan located on the banks of the river Godavari in the Aurangabad district of the state of Maharashtra, where the sari was first made by hand.
In ancient times, Paithan had many names such as pratishthan, patan, pattun, potan, pathan. This city has cultural and religious significance indeed. It has a glorious history, not only known as the land of saints but also the land of scholars, Vidyanagar. History texts that the production of the Paithani saree started during the Satavahan dynasty, whose capital was the Pratishthan.
Present-day Yeola town in Nashik, Maharashtra is the largest manufacturer of Paithani.
Special features
This beautiful handwoven saree is made of silk and zari of gold as well as silver. It is a plain weave, with weft figuring designs according to the principles of the tapestry. It is recognized by its distinctive border and the design of a peacock on its pallu. About 4 – 24 shuttles are employed to produce the design. It is slow and laborious work. It may take up to 8 days to produce one sq. ft. of fabric by this technique.
Among other varieties, single-colored and kaleidoscope-colored designs are also popular. The kaleidoscopic effect is achieved by using one color for weaving lengthwise and another for weaving width-wise.
Artisans have to work very hard to make a Paithani. In the past, Paithan had the prosperity of gold, silver, diamonds, and beads. It takes 18 to 24 months to weave a sixth saree. Usually, five hundred grams of silk yarn and two hundred and fifty grams of Zar are required.
History
The art of weaving Paithani flourished in 200 B.C., during the Satvahana era. Paithani saree was mainly produced to export from India to foreign countries and add to the treasury. Indian weaving, clothing textures, coloring, etching durability, and the way sarees are worn are all things that attract foreign customers. Paithani was in great demand abroad for a long time. since then, textile exports from India have started in the international market.
GautamiPutra Satkarni gave a new identity to the Paithani manufacturing industry during the Satavahan period. The industry was at the peak of progress during this period. Paithani textiles were widely exported to Rome and Italy.
Later, even during the Yadava dynasty, Paithani was in demand abroad. In the empire of the Marathas and the Peshwas, Paithani got kingship. The women of the royal family preferred these sarees. The weaver pours his life into the art while weaving the carvings of the figures of various flowers, and birds, through a single thread of zar and silk. A beautiful blend of historical splendor and Indian art is seen in Paithani. While weaving Paithani, weavers have spent the experience and hard work of many generations.
As time progressed, political transitions took place. There were foreign invasions like Nizam shahi, the British came, and due to the change of power, the Paithani business suffer decadence. Consequently, Paithani’s kingship gradually came to an end. After world war II, the price of gold and silver increased. Machines also replace handlooms. As a result, gradually the artisans became unemployed. The customer base also decreased.
A major turn in the history of Paithani is the shift in its manufacturing center from Paithan to Yeola during the Peshwa period. In the late 19th century, a Sardar from Yeola, Raghuji Naik along with a trader Shyamji Walji brought a few weavers from Paithan to Yeola. Since 1980 Paithani weaving took rebirth in the town of Yeola.
Practitioners of Art
Traditionally, There are four weaving communities are present to survive this craft.
1. Kshatriya, 2.Koshti, 3.Shali, 4.Nagpuri
Traditionally men handled the task of weaving on a loom, while women, children, and the elderly helped in the pre and post processes. The main weaver on an average is between the age group of 17 and 45.
This intricate and tedious skill was and is majorly passed on from one generation to another in a family. Children start helping with small tasks and not to mention as time passes by, are seen sitting next to their elders to learn and assist in weaving at the age of ten to eleven years.
Now, certain affiliated universities teach this craft in various training centers or in an informal way an experienced weaver trains younger men in surroundings and later hires them as weavers. This has helped people across communities to get familiar with this wonderful craft.
Types of Weaving
• Kadiyal border sari: Kadiyal means interlocking. The warp and the weft of the border are of the same color while the body has different colors for warp and weft.
• Kad/Ekdhoti: Artisans use a single shuttle for the weaving of weft. The colors of the warp yarn are different from that of the weft yarn. It has a narali border and simple buttis like paisa, watana, etc.
Traditional motif
A traditional Paithani has a plain body with tiny motifs called ‘buttis’. These buttis have various shapes like coins, flowers, peas, stars, etc.
Artisans decorate pallu (padar) with the main motifs like peacock, parrot, lotus, paisley, flowers, leaves, creepers & their variations accordingly.
Popular Colours
Generally, bright and dark colors are the preference of choice in making Paithani sarees. Local names of colors are as follows,
1. Pophali (yellow)
2. Neelgunji (blue)
3. Firozi (white, red, and pale green blend)
4. Pasila (red, pink, and green blend)
5. Udaani (faint black)
6. Guijari (black and white blend)
7. Morpankhi (green and blue blend)
8. Aboli (peach pink)
9. Sankirodak (white)
10. Mirani (black and red blend)
11. Motia (pale pink)
12. Samprus (green and red blend)
13. Vangi (purple)
Border
The border of a Paithani saree is 3 to 9 inches wide. Two types of the border are the Narali (diamond-shape criss-cross motifs) and the Pankhi (feather). Then artisans give an outline of a temple or mango motif called “Mukri” to the entire border.
Cost and time
Paithani sarees are associated with royalty as they are made from zari with detailed workmanship. Due to this, these sarees are very expensive ranging from Rs. 8000 to Rs. 5 lakh for heavier brocades.
Depending upon the level of difficulty of the craft, the time taken for production varies from one month to 1 or 2 years.
The modern form of Paithani
Paithani, which was earlier only in the royal family, is now present in the homes of the common man. The production of synthetic yarns, artificial jars, and machines has reduced the cost of its production, so it is possible to sell them at affordable prices to the common consumers.
Paithani has changed the equation of saree in modern times. It has ventured into numerous fields of fashion and has also elevated its international leap. Paithani is becoming popular as a fashion among the youth these days. Artisans make many items such as Kurtis, jackets, dhotis, ghagra, blouses, wall pieces, purses, trays, one-pieces, torans, sky lanterns, etc. with Paithani’s imprint on them. To conclude, like the phoenix bird in the ashes, Paithani is regaining its glory and rejuvenation.
Revival and Exhibition
After the independence of India as well as the Hyderabad liberation war, according to the economic policy of the government, started the Paithani production center in Paithan in 1968. Since 1974, the government has entrusted the task of redeveloping this industry to the Maharashtra small industries development board. The board started the work of Paithani production with vigor by encouraging the weavers of both Paithan and Yeola.
Under those circumstances, the number of handlooms in Paithan increased in the 1980s. The government and NGOs started training classes at the training center. It increased the number of female trainees. From 15 to 20 handlooms, the number further went from 300 to 400 in the 2010s. Likewise Paithan, the number of handlooms in Yeola was 250 to 300 in the 1980s, which went up to 1000 houses after the 2010s.
In 2000, British airways decorated the exterior of the aircraft with Paithani carvings. also, their tickets, pens, pencils, t-shirts, etc., had Paithani carvings on them.
References
Incredible Textiles Of India : Maharashtra (Paithani) (stylestackapparels.com)
Paithani Saree History and Origin: पैठणीचा रुबाब! साड्यांची महाराणी पैठणीचा ‘हा’ इतिहास माहीत आहे का? वाचा सविस्तर – Maharashtra Times
Paithani- History (unnatisilks.com)
Paithani – Wikipedia
