Chikankari, from the land of Tehzeeb and Nazaquat, Lucknow, is incredibly graceful but sophisticated. The intricate designs, the pastel colors, and the simplicity of the designs make them an irresistible buy. There are innumerable, uncommon, and contemporary fabric choices, color combinations as well as embroidery patterns.
Chikankari embroidery has come a long way from its inception in India 400 years ago during the Mughal era. The delicate design with fine stitches that are hard to mimic by any sort of machinery is what makes this technique so special and explains its popularity.
origin
There are references to embroidery similar to chikan work in India as early as the 3rd century BC by Megasthenes, who in the first place mentioned the use of flowered muslins by Indians. But these embroidered patterns lack any colour, ornamentation or anything spectacular to embellish it.
Another common tale behind its history relates the Mughals introducing this Persian craft to India in the 17th Century. The Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s consort, Noor Jahan, was indeed a known talented embroiderer with a particular fondness for Chikankari work. Jahangir not only enamoured this craft but also lavished it with his royal patronage. Subsequently, he established several workshops to hone and perfect this art form.
After the downfall of the Empire, Chikankari artisans spread all over India and founded various centers for re-establishment in the 18th and 19th Centuries. Lucknow was the main one with Awadh as a close second. The Governor of Awadh, Burhan Ul Malik, was a Persian nobleman and Chikan work beneficiary who had a major role in restoring this craft to its former glory, which in many ways stands till date.
Techniqes
The patterns and effects created depend on the stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used. Some of the stitches include backstitch, chain stitch as well as hemstitch. The result is an openwork pattern, jali (lace) or shadow-work. Often the embroiderer creates mesh-like sections by using a needle to separate threads in the ground fabric and then working around the spaces. It consists of 32 stitches.
Process
Indian Chikan work basically consists of a number of processes, namely cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and finishing. Not to mention, the Same person does cutting and stitching. Then, wooden blocks dipped in dye use for printing. Once embroidered, the last step in the Chikankari work is washing and finishing, which may take from 10 to 12 days and involves bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening and ironing. The most common motif used in Chikan Kari work is that of creepers. Floral motifs used either throughout the garment or in corners include jasmine, rose, flowering stems, lotus, etc.
Stitches
The stitches used in Chikan Kari work of Lucknow are basically of three categories, namely
- Flat Stitches (Subtle stitches that remain close to the fabric)
- Embossed Stitches (they give a grainy appearance)
- Jali Work (Created by thread tension, it gives a delicate net effect)
1. Bakhiya
Double back or ‘shadow stitch’ in chikan work is done from the wrong side of the fabric and the design is rendered in the herringbone style. The shadow of the thread is seen through the cloth on the right side.
2. Tepchi
It is a long-running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right side of the fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. This principally acts as a basis for further stitchery and occasionally to form a simple shape. Tepchi is the choice of preference to make bel butti all over the fabric.
3. Hool
It is a fine eyelet stitch. Herein, a hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart.
4. Zanzeera
It is a small chain stitch with one thread on the right side of the fabric. Being extremely fine, this stitch is mainly used to outline the leaf or petal shapes.
5. Rahet
It is a stem stitch with six threads on the wrong side of the fabric. It forms a solid line of backstitch on the right side of the fabric and is rarely used in its simple form but is common in the double form of dohra bakhiya as an outlining stitch.
6. Banarasi
This stitch has no European equivalent. It is a twisted stitch with six threads on the right side of the fabric. Working on the right side and at an interval of 5 threads, a small stitch is taken over about two threads vertically.The needle is reinserted halfway along and below the horizontal stitch formed and is taken out about two threads vertically on the right side above the previous stitch.
7. Khatau
In Khatau, the embroiderer used calico material for designs. That is placed over the surface of the nal fabric and then paisley and floral patterns are stitched onto it.
8. Phanda and Murri
They are typically French knots. Murri has a rice shape and phanda has a millet shape.
9. Jali
This stitch is the one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The warp and weft threads are carefully drawn apart and minute buttonhole stitches are inserted into the cloth.
10. Gitti
This stitch is suitable to make a wheel-like motif with the combination of a long satin stitch and buttonhole stitch.
There are many other types of Chikankari stitches which are: pechni, pashni, Banjkali, Makra, Kauri, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, etc
Global Impact
Chikankari embroidery has certainly become one of the most popular traditional embroidery styles in India and abroad as well. We can see Chikankari embroidery incorporated in everything from decorating clothes, ornaments to Kurtis, Lehengas, Salwar Kameez Suits, also Sarees, and whatnot. Not to mention, the technique has taken place in the hearts of fashion connoisseurs from all parts of the world. As a result, with such great expansion, designers have started practicing the technique in brighter color fabrics as well. To make the outfits even fancier, elements like motifs and mirror work added to the designs that make Chikankari embroidery outfits fit to wear during the wedding festivities as well.
Popular designers of the country like Manish Malhotra and Vineet Bahl have also worked with Chikankari embroidery in their recent designs. Many Celebrities have also publicly worn outfits embracing the art form. In short, even today, Lucknowi Chikankari is extremely popular and attracts plenty of shoppers to the old markets in the former capital of Awadh to come and witness the beauty of the design in all its glory.
References
- (Famous Indian Embroidery Styles: Chikankari, Zardosi & Kantha | The Ethnic Soul (craftsvilla.com)
- Chikan (embroidery) – Wikipedia
- Chikankari Embroidery Work, Designs and Patterns – Loom Tree
- Chikankari in India – History & Types (culturalindia.net)
- D’source Taanka(embroidery) | Process | D’Source Digital Online Learning Environment for Design: Courses, Resources, Case Studies, Galleries, Videos (dsource.in)
- Chikankari Embroidery: Here is Everything You Should Know About It! (weddingwire.in)
- Lucknow Chikankari Manufacturing Process – Shaan-e-Awadh Chikankari (shaaneawadh.com)
